![]() They will be further inboard in the rear than they are in the front. Look under your car and see where the springs mount to the control arms in the front and rear of your car. So car manufacturers will use progressive rate rear springs to maintain a supple ride while keeping the advantages of a high rear ride frequency for when drivers hit potholes or speed bumps.Īnother reason for installing a stiffer rear spring is that the rear suspension of most passenger cars are designed with a higher motion ratio than the front. However, making the rear springs too stiff would make the ride jarring. ![]() This reduces the amount of bouncing the passengers experiences and gives the perception of a better ride. By making the rear spring stiffer, automotive engineers can make the front and rear settle from a bump at almost the same time. One reason for this is to help with ride comfort when driving over big bumps. What a lot of people don't realize is that most passenger cars (FWD, AWD, or RWD) come with higher rate springs in the back than they do in the front. Make the rear springs significantly stiffer than the front A coilover kit with super-stiff front springs is probably not what you want if you plan to run the same 245/40R17s on all four corners of your car. But it is important to understand that these differences exist, especially if you plan to use coilover kits or anti-roll bars with off the shelf rates. There are tons of fast FWD track cars on both sides of the fence. The downside is that the added rear grip will make the car difficult to rotate and you need to rely on stiffer rear springs and stiffer rear anti-roll bars to make the car turn. Along with the economic benefit of being able to use the tyres all the way around, this approach will give you more setup freedom in the rear end of the car. In contrast, most FWD club racing cars and street-driven track cars in the US use the same size wheels and tyres on the front and rear. But it also means that you can't swap wheels front to back, and that you will need to really work with the brake bias to keep the small rear tyres from locking up. You can run stiffer front springs, run less extreme alignment settings, and the car's behavior won't change as much when the tyres heat up. A larger front wheel and wider front tyre will naturally reduce the amount of understeer the car exhibits through every corner. This seemingly small difference makes a huge difference in how all of the other pieces fall into the setup puzzle. The other uses a larger wheel or a wider tyre in the front. One school of thought uses the same size wheel / tyre combination in the front as the rear. The first thing you need to know is that there are two major schools of thought when it comes to setting up production based front wheel drive cars, and the difference is in tyre size. ![]() Here's what those books and guides are missing: After three years and dozens of suspension mods later, I finally realized that the advice I received from books and online setup guides were missing some key points in how to set up front wheel drive cars. My beloved Nissan was easy enough to drive, but getting the car to turn was a constant problem. On paper, it's the perfect base for a nimble, lightweight handling monster.īut for some strange reason, I couldn't get it to handle. It was a 2-door Sentra 1.6, complete with a cast iron 115hp GA16DE motor, 14" wheels and a curb weight under 2300 lbs. My first ever track car was a 98 Nissan 200sx. ![]()
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